1. Grill Won’t Light (Clicks but No Flame)

What’s Likely Happening:
You hear the igniter clicking, but there’s no flame. This is one of the most common issues after installing a new tank or reconnecting a gas line.

Possible Causes:

• Empty propane tank (seriously — it’s more common than you think).

• Air trapped in the gas lines after tank swap or new installation.

• Gas valve not fully open.

• Regulator lockout (bypass mode).

• For NG: Main gas shutoff valve is closed or partially turned.

What To Do:

1. Open the grill lid to prevent gas buildup.

2. Turn all control knobs to OFF.

3. Check propane tank — lift it or try another known full tank.

4. For NG grills, confirm your shut-off valve is fully open (handle should be in line with the pipe).

5. Reset your LP regulator:

   • Close the tank valve.

   • Disconnect the regulator for 1 full minute.

   • Reconnect and slowly open the valve (¼ turn per second).

   • Wait 10 seconds, then attempt to ignite again.

Pro Tip:
It can take 2–3 ignition attempts to purge trapped air, especially after maintenance or new setup.

2. Burner Lights But Flame is Low or Blows Out Easily

What’s Likely Happening:
Your burner ignites but gives off a weak, flickering flame — or goes out as soon as you close the lid.

Causes:

• Regulator went into bypass mode (common with LP).

• Wind blowing directly into the grill box.

• Gas line is kinked or partially closed.

• Low gas pressure on NG supply line.

What To Check:

• Reset the LP regulator using the steps above.

• For NG, check that all valves along the gas line are fully open and the line is dedicated to the grill (no split lines).

• Ensure the hose isn’t pinched, bent, or stretched.

• Relocate the grill or shield it from wind.

3. Grill Heats Slowly or Won’t Reach High Temps

What’s Likely Happening:
After preheating for 15–20 minutes, the grill still won’t climb above 500°F.

Causes:

• Regulator in safety mode.

• Low or nearly empty LP tank.

• Shared gas line (NG) drops pressure when other appliances run.

• Burners are clogged.

• Incorrect hose sizing (especially on NG setups — use ½" min for BTU demand).

What To Do:

• Swap in a full propane tank (not just “feels like there's gas”).

• Run a regulator reset.

• Clean burner ports and flame tamers.

• For NG: Ensure a direct, high-capacity gas line with no other appliance on the same run.

Reminder:
Flames should be solid blue with yellow tips — dancing, inconsistent flames = flow issue.

4. One Burner Isn’t Lighting or Runs Cooler Than the Others

What’s Likely Happening:
All burners work fine except one that refuses to ignite or stays cooler.

Causes:

• Burner misaligned with the gas valve nozzle.

• Clogged orifice or burner tube.

• Bug/insect blockage in venturi.

• Valve stem may be slightly closed or stiff.

Fix:

1. Let grill cool.

2. Remove grates and flame tamers.

3. Pull the problem burner — clean the port holes with a wire brush.

4. Clear the venturi and tube (compressed air or pipe cleaner).

5. Make sure it’s properly seated over the gas orifice.

6. Test by lighting that burner alone first.

5. Clicking but No Spark (No Ignition Sound)

What’s Likely Happening:
You turn the knob, but there’s no “tick tick tick” spark at all.

Causes:

• Battery is dead or installed backward.

• Loose or disconnected igniter wires.

• Faulty igniter module.

Fix:

• Remove the igniter cap and replace the battery (AA, positive side out).

• Check wiring from the igniter box to the electrodes (ensure snug connections).

• Test the igniter by manually lighting the grill — if the flame works, the spark is the issue.

6. Rotisserie Burner Won’t Light or Stay Lit

What’s Likely Happening:
You press the igniter but the rotisserie burner doesn’t light — or glows blue and never turns orange.

Causes:

• Longer gas line takes time to fill.

• Insufficient gas pressure.

• Dirty or blocked ceramic burner surface.

• Wind blowing flame away from ceramic face.

Fix:

• Hold the control knob IN for 5–8 seconds before pressing igniter.

• Let it run for 3+ minutes to fully heat.

• Use in a wind-protected area.

• Shut off main burners if needed to maximize pressure to rotisserie.

7. Fire Inside Burner Tube (Flashback)

What’s Likely Happening:
You hear a roaring sound and see flame coming from beneath the burner box.

Causes:

• Insects (usually spiders) clogging the venturi tube.

• Burner misaligned with orifice.

Fix:

• Shut off gas supply immediately.

• Let grill cool fully.

• Remove burner and clean inside the tube using a long brush.

• Re-seat the burner properly and test again.

8. Grease Fire in the Firebox

What’s Likely Happening:
A flare-up turns into a full-on fire under the grates — flames may leak out of the lid.

Causes:

• Grease buildup in the tray or drain.

• Cooking on high with excessive grease runoff.

• Grease-soaked foil lining the grill bottom (NEVER do this).

What To Do:

• Turn OFF all burners and shut the gas at the source (tank or valve).

• Keep the lid closed to starve the fire of oxygen.

• Do not use water to put out the fire.

• After it cools:

  • Remove and empty the grease tray.

  • Scrape out all drain channels.

  • Clean burner faces and flame tamers.

⚠️ Warning:
Grease fires can damage valves and wires — they are not covered under warranty. Keep it clean.

9. Yellow or Smoky Flames

What’s Likely Happening:
Flames are mostly yellow and leave black soot on food or grates.

Causes:

• Burner ports partially blocked.

• Improper air-to-gas ratio.

• Grease or seasoning buildup on burner.

• Spiders inside the venturi tubes.

Fix:

• Run the burner on HIGH with the lid closed for 10 minutes.

• If still yellow, remove burner and clean with warm water + mild detergent.

• Inspect and clean air shutters and venturi.

10. Burners Sputter or Go Out Mid-Cook

What’s Likely Happening:
Burners start strong, but then sputter or extinguish suddenly.

Causes:

• Ice forming on the propane tank (overdraw).

• Drop in pressure from other gas appliances (NG).

• Moisture or grit in the hose or regulator.

Fix:

• For LP: Disconnect and purge the gas line. Reconnect and relight.

• For NG: Verify dedicated supply line, no appliances running on the same loop.

• Consider installing a regulator filter if this happens often.

11. Knobs Are Hard to Turn or Feel Sticky

What’s Likely Happening:
Knobs squeak, grind, or don’t turn smoothly.

Fix:

• Remove the knobs and clean valve stems with alcohol.

• Apply high-temp silicone grease sparingly.

• Rotate a few times to work in the grease.

• Reinstall and test for smooth motion.

12. Control Panel Feels Too Hot

What’s Likely Happening:
Knobs and faceplate get hot — sometimes too hot to touch.

Causes:

• Warped or missing heat shield behind panel.

• Improper cooking methods (lid closed on high for long periods).

• Direct summer sun heating panel.

• Gas leak near manifold or valve.

Fix:

• Inspect the heat deflector plate and replace if warped.

• Never use “HI” for longer than 10 minutes — drop to MED or LOW after preheating.

• Check for leaks at valve joints using soap-and-water test.

• Grill in shaded area or cover panel with damp towel if in direct sun.

13. Grill Makes Whistling or Hissing Sounds

What’s Likely Happening:
Audible high-pitched noise when grill is running.

Causes:

• Gas vibrating inside burner tube.

• Incorrect air mix at venturi.

• NG hose too narrow or wrong type.

Fix:

• Adjust the air shutter slightly to change mix.

• Check hose size (½" minimum).

• Avoid yellow “dryer hoses” for NG — they’re known to whistle or restrict flow.

14. Thermometer Is Inaccurate

What’s Likely Happening:
Your lid thermometer shows 100°F too hot or too cold.

Fix:

• Tighten mounting nut.

• Clean the face.

• Test in boiling water (should read ~212°F).

• Replace if reading is still off.

15. Excess Smoke at Low Heat

What’s Likely Happening:
Thick white smoke rises even when cooking at low settings.

Causes:

• Grease tray is full or drain blocked.

• Heavy buildup under flame tamers.

• Water or debris in the firebox.

Fix:

• Pull out the grease tray and scrub it with degreaser.

• Clean out the drain hole and V-channel.

• Let the grill run on HIGH with the lid open for 10 minutes to clear remaining buildup.